Seeing Norway
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Home!
Alan and I arrived safely home and well this morning! I even stopped by and worked a bit before we headed to our house. It is also safe and well, thanks to my wonderful friends who watered plants and brought in the mail. My blue poppies are still blooming and my peonies are perfect. I certainly thought I would not see them at all.
A few things to mention about our first cruise with Fred Olson! Apparently this company has the reputation of the passengers being "Newly weds or nearly deads". Well, in our experience, this was not the case. We made more friends and had much more fun than any other cruise we have been on! We would never hesitate to recommend this cruise line or go on another cruise with them. Don't get me wrong, the age range is on the upper scale, but not solely 70's and above!
And as for the problems with Norovirus. I know that is always a worry on any cruise ship. And if you read the passenger forums, it sounds really scary for this ship alone. But when I mentioned we had no self service on the buffet, I didn't realize that was not meant for the duration of the cruise. And I apologize for not coming back to that. After leaving the ship for our first stop at Alesund, we arrived back to find a transformation - suddenly there were no holds barred at any of the self service places - whether it was the buffet or the 24 hour coffee. We had access to everything! After being so controlled for the first 3 days, I was feeling a bit confused. I had accepted we would have to exercise restraint at the buffet, only to have this lifted. What happened?
What I did not realize was we were all under a sort of quarantine and after 3 days no one fell ill. So there was no Norovirus to worry about! This did not mean we didn't have to wash our hands or use the hand gel that is everywhere, but that is on all ships and we are used to that. I have kept meaning to put this change in, but when on board, I had to count the minutes and always felt rushed when putting the blog together. Now I have all the time in the world! Trouble is, I am feeling terribly jet lagged. Why? Maybe the sleep deprivation from those wonderful sunny nights!
However, we would all have not embarked on our journey to Norway as passengers and then disembarked back in Scotland as cargo had they enforced the staff serving us all at the buffet for the duration of the cruise!
Hail, Gastronome, Apostle of Excess, Well skilled to overeat without distress! Thy great invention, the unfatal feast, Shows Man's superiority to Beast. --John Boop”
Monday, July 1, 2013
Bergen – our last port in Norway
We were a bit disappointed when we learned that there was
only a half day scheduled for Bergen – our last destination on this
cruise. I must admit though, we had
wondered why there was one sea day going home when we had two on the way to
Norway, so it did make sense.
Clothes in a shop window
Sunday market
The other big cultural difference I observed is the
abundance of fur clothing! Oh, and the
availability of purchasing seal, reindeer, goat and other hides, or a whole fox
to use as a stole around your neck. They
were beautiful, but in the UK, and probably USA, wearing fur is so frowned
upon. I know it gets much colder here,
so there would be a market for these.
Bergen is Norway’s second largest city and had 3 cruise
ships in on the day we were there. One
was the Azura, which was our last cruise ship, and might have been the one to
take us to Norway this year. The main
argument that won our interest was not having to fly to Southampton to board a
cruise, but rather to drive north for about an hour and a half to get on this
one! There is no comparison in cruises
though. One is a small, intimate, more
old fashioned ship. The other is huge, glitzy, busy and amazing. (Uh oh, that makes it sound as if I prefer
the Azura! Not true, they are both as
good and as different as each other.)
If we had a whole day in Bergen, I would have liked to take
the funicular to see the view, apparently that is quite striking. However, we had loads of Kroners to spend and
had not shopped much at all. Plus, I
just wanted to wander a bit and see the city on the ground. Glad I did too!
Right off the ship, there were tall ships docked, plus a
beautiful castle we had to walk by. This castle is very similar to the keeps in
Scotland, and about double the size of Dean Castle in Kilmarnock (my favourite
Scottish castle). The castle was much
grander than a regular “keep” though and it would have been nice to go in. Again, IF we had been there for a full day!
Walking along the harbour, there are rickety old houses,
leaning this way and that. Reminded us a
bit of the Shambles in York. There were
alleyways in between some of them, and going in – they were really ancient
looking wooden structures. I thought
they were absolutely beautiful, but too close and too dark to get a good
photo. But again, it was like the
Shambles, only with a Viking touch!
But it became time to return to the ship. And there was a send-off party at the pool! And it was very sunny, maybe not really warm – but sunny. The myth around Bergen is it always rains, or as my Swedish friend told me-
A couple was visiting Bergen and it was raining. They stopped to ask a boy if it always rains in Bergen and he said “I don’t know, I am only 10!” So we were extremely lucky to see this beautiful city in sunshine!
Flam
While Alan and I were on the Flam/Myrdal rail line, we saw darling villages and farms, plus spectacular waterfalls!
There was also a road with 21 hairpin curves on it. This was originally built for the construction workers to get up to the area of building all the necessary tunnels for the rail line. They would have been using horse and carts though, not cars. And this road is no longer used, thank goodness! Well, yes it is, but only for hikers and cyclists!
We had a 5 minute stop, both going up and coming down,
at this huge waterfall. While we were
stopped, music starts and there is a Huldra singing to us. (look closely, she is in an orange dress close to the ruined building.)
Like I said in the previous blog – we heard her even as far as Flam and ran to buy our train ticket!
Like I said in the previous blog – we heard her even as far as Flam and ran to buy our train ticket!
Leaving Flam was even more spectacular than our
arrival. Captain Stein decided to take
us on one of his favourite detours. I
had heard of this trip, but it was not meant to happen on this itinerary. We were so lucky! I do wish I had caught the name of the fjord
he took us down, apparently it is quite famous because it is so narrow. Captain Stein calls it the Narrow Fjord, but I
don’t think that is its real name!
Whether the ship is able to go on this or not is strictly dependent upon the weather. He explained that there can be no wind for them to take the ship on this narrow fjord.
Whether the ship is able to go on this or not is strictly dependent upon the weather. He explained that there can be no wind for them to take the ship on this narrow fjord.
I really tried to get a photo that would catch the
perspective of how close the ship was to the sides. Quite an undertaking since my
camera battery died in the middle of this adventure. Then I just used my
Ipad! Nothing was quite good enough though. Alan has given me some of his photos. But they don’t really catch it either.
We would turn a bend and it would look like we could not go
any further, but there would be a tiny channel in the distance. This went on
for about an hour, until we really did have to turn around! How on earth we did that is way beyond
me. This manoeuvre was more like being
on a train turntable. I would never have
thought what Captain Stein did was possible in such a long ship. At the point where the ship was perpendicular
to each shore it appeared to us that the bow and the stern were only 30 feet
away from the shore, each side. In other
words, he did a full 360 degree turn. We
actually missed our dinner seating to enjoy this experience!
I mentioned Captain Stein in passing before, but he is such
fun as a Captain. And he especially
enjoyed himself on this detour. The
first time he sounded the ship’s horn, there were campers just minding their
own business and not noticing this giant approaching. We were on the deck above him when he told us
to watch them! He also sounded the horn
to a lady on the other side waving a big sheet. He told us she is in her mid-80’s
and never misses this event!
If you look
closely you can see the white sheet she uses. She is standing in front of the
white building, between the small red and large brown buildings. I also have a picture of
Captain Stein waving to her, but thought this one is at least a bit
clearer. Other people came out and took
their photos on shore with the Boudicca behind them. So they must see the ship passing them as
quite an event too!
Captain Stein is the living proof that, as Mark Twain said,
if you find a job you like, you will never work again!
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Wonderful day in Flam!
I was awake from about 4am just watching the scenery from
our window as we got nearer to Flam! It
was just spectacular. This is what I was
waiting for; the fjord we were on was absolutely breathtaking! It was really difficult not to waken Alan,
but he was sleeping so soundly that I just couldn’t bring myself to. However, my alarm was still set from the last
time we went on an excursion, so he was wakened about 6am. And, lickety split, he was on deck and taking
photographs!
The not so great news is it was raining, with drops bouncing
off the street. So I am glad we didn’t book an excursion and we decided to just
take it easy and enjoy this beautiful, small village, once we decided to go
out….However, that is not what happened!
As we were walking into town, we passed the train station. Flam is
famous for its scenic ride up the mountain.
And we congratulated ourselves on not having plans since the weather was
so bad. Then we realized the train left
in 10 minutes, so we got tickets and were on it before we realized!
And it was so worth it!
Just an hour up and an hour down. They stop at a gorgeous waterfall,
where a Huldra – or a dangerous mountain spirit – is shown as if from one of
the local legends to lure unsuspecting people into the mountains. Wait, isn’t that what happened to us?
They also give a bit of history and the whole trip is
breathtaking.
There is a coffee shop at the Myrdal station. And if you did
book an excursion, this is where you would get off to change trains. But we
were told, this was the highest point any of them got to. Everyone on
a trip was away the whole day, but we got back to Flam in time to look
at shops, visit the local brewery.
(unlike our usual routine – we did not partake!) We were happy to sit in this old time feeling
lodge and enjoy being there – before heading back to the ship for a rest.
Poor Alan was a bit under the weather today. He started this trip with a cold and has fared
along pretty well. In fact, I thought he
was all better. But the day in Flam was
really hard for him, he was low on energy and very congested. I am not used to Alan being less than 100%
and was really happy we had nothing to do most of the day. We both needed the rest!
I mentioned the fact I have 10 pairs of shoes with me. Well,
I also have 3 coats. No idea what I was
thinking when I packed, but with the rain and changeable weather, I have
benefitted from having all of them! One
is a heavy winter coat, one is a virtually a windbreaker and the other one is a
heavier wind breaker – I had not used this one since my last trip to
Switzerland with the Guides. That was
about 2008! So far, it is my
favourite! The next time I have to go on
a trip and worry about luggage allowance, I don’t know how I will cope!
Later that day we sat in the harbour station, where the crew
all use the free wifi! We try to find
where the crew go whenever we stop at ports when on a cruise. But time in
Norway has been at such a premium we have not done this until now. It is fantastic that some ports put on free
wifi so those people who are so far from home can stay in touch with friends
and family. All the languages in this
room made it feel a bit like the United Nations! However, there ended up being too much strain
on the wifi and we couldn’t get through.
Since I did have access to wifi on board, I decided to leave and let
these folks have a better chance to “phone home!”
Here are some pictures just for fun:
The Boudicca taken by a friend of our's as we sailed past!
Captain Stein is Norwegian and appears to both love his country and his job! He has been such fun and is the most approachable Ship's Captain I have ever seen. Here he is on the bridge:
Fjord Farm
sunset at Olden
Olden was mainly a village for herring fishing until the oil industry became such big business.
that is it for now.
Friday, June 28, 2013
Visiting Olden and Floro
We
have been docked overnight in Floro!
When we arrived at 8:30pm, we felt we were given shore leave and left
the ship to get an advance idea of what Floro would have to offer! Well, it didn’t take very long……everything
was closed for the night. We did find a few bars, but one felt much too local
and the other would have cost us the equivalent of £50 or $75 for 4 beers. With very little atmosphere, we felt that
money would be better spent on the ship and just came back. But we also felt tomorrow is another day and
are looking forward to discovering this darling village when it is awake!
One
very interesting about Floro is that it is the westernmost town in Norway and
there is nothing between it and the Americas!
So I will look West and give everyone in Canada a wave hello!
Yesterday
was one of those rare perfect days that will last a lifetime in our
memory. We docked at Olden, but once
again, had planned a trip so did not actually see Olden. It looked precious too, but such is life.
We
were the first group to be tendered off the ship so we could catch our bus for
our walk to Briksdal Glacier. We were informed that this is the largest glacier
in Europe. So that means I have visited both
the highest, in Switzerland and the largest in Norway! Maybe I should start bagging glaciers like people
in Scotland bag Munros!
When
we booked this trip, I knew it was a walk to the glacier, and I really worried
about how high it would go and how long it would take me. We only were allotted something around an
hour – that meant to leave time for cakes and coffee afterward. My uphill muscles and not that dependable and
when we first saw the glacier, my worries tripled!
First
view of the Briksdal Gladier
The
walk was not unpleasant though, and I spent the whole time in deep conversation
with the dance instructor! We had never
met before and by the time of reaching the top, we knew all about each other’s
families and many other things. So that
is my way of bragging that not only did I make it to the end of the walk, but I
was able to walk, talk and breath at the same time. And in all honesty, we only
went to the base, not the top. (Thank
goodness!)
Alan
and Pat at the Briksdal Glacier
The
lake at the base of the glacier was so cold it had bits of the glacier floating
about in it! One of our group decided to
suck an ice cube and she said it tasted like mineral water. I was not brave enough to do this!
Briksdal
Ice!
The
other thing, I don’t think the camera could catch, was the color of the
glacier. It was that lovely blue you see
in photos from Alaska. Here is the
picture, you might have to use your imagination to see the blue though.
On
the way up and the way down, we saw these beautiful goats. One had such amazing markings that made it
look more like a small deer than and goat.
But it never cooperated for me to get its good side!
For some reason, I can't access the picture of the goats to post, sorry! Will try another time.
AND
I made it down in time for cakes!
Alan and I walked
into Floro this morning and found a more
vibrant town than last night! The
buildings are really cute and the harbour has loads of private boats, plus the
most modern ferries I have ever seen.
But from what I understand, at least this part of Norway had very few
roads until recently. Everyone depended
upon ferries to get anywhere. Now there
are roads, although many look like single track roads, and loads of tunnels as
well. But there are still many, many
ferries too. As dependent as we are upon
our cars, I can’t imagine this way of life. But it must be more relaxed and pleasant
that what we are used to!
Floro also has a tourist information place with free wifi! Alan and I sat there for a while checking emails, etc on our tablets. But to do this blog, I need my laptop so am restricted to doing this on board the ship, on their internet service! Not ideal, but I like doing this blog, so worth the sacrifice of having to sit in the lounge or bar, having a drink to be polite! And catching up on the day.
“Nature does great things
without asking for reward”
Alexandri Herzen
Thursday, June 27, 2013
Geirangerfjord Day Trip
Last night we attempted to get to bed early so we would be
bright eyed and ready for an all-day bus journey to experience this UNESCO
World Heritage Norwegian Fjord! But the
moon came out with the sun still up, it never got dark and we were afraid we
might miss something! As a result, both
Alan and I slept quite a bit on this 8 hour trip, but we didn’t miss the
important things!
We docked at Alesund, sorry for the lack of proper Norwegian
keyboard letters. I know there must be a
way to get them, but my time on both the laptop and the internet are very
limited – after all there is a massive amount of scenery to see, so I hope you
forgive me for not taking the time to investigate where to find the correct
letters!
small farm on the shore of Geirangerfjord
This city is famous for its Art Nouveau buildings and we
were lucky to see these on the way back to the ship. But we had to make a
difficult choice to miss seeing this city and jump on a bus to see the
fjord. And it was beautiful! There were 3 ferry journeys – one was the
main trip down Geirangerfjord, and the other 2 were very similar to going to Millport
(if you are not familiar with this – imagine a ferry to take you across a wide
river or lake). There were loads of
tunnels too!
The ferry journey down Geirangerfjord took just over an hour
and we saw so many wonderful waterfalls and abandoned farms way up on
cliffs. At least one of these farms had
to tether their kids so they would not fall!
From what I could gather, the farms all seemed to be abandoned in about
the 60’s, and I could only relate this to
when the US bought the Current River in Missouri to protect it and allow
everyone to enjoy it. There were loads
of abandoned summer homes on that when my Dad and I first canoed down the
Current River the year it became the first National River!
Geiranger, only 5 cruise ships area allowed here per day, ours' was not one of these today.
Not only was it really interesting to see these little farms
all up and down the cliffs, but we also had the highlight of seeing the
Hurtigruten ship. When we originally talked
about going to Norway, we intended to go on this ship. It is not a cruise ship, but a working
service ship, making deliveries on a daily basis all up and down the Norwegian
coast. They also take passengers…..this
is not a grand cruise and proper dress for dinner might include hiking
boots. But it always sounded amazing. (Obviously, we got a better offer….) So it was like seeing an old friend when we
spotted this little ship in the middle of the cruise liners docked at
Geiranger. The smaller ship in this picture is the Hurtigruten as it began its journey away from Geiranger.
Before returning to the ship, we had a lovely 3 course
lunch, then back on board virtually on time to sail away. Without the detour the bus took through the
area of Alesund that had been burned and rebuilt in roughly 1908, we would
never have seen the Art Nouveau area this city is famous for. But, I must admit, after seeing it, I doubt I
would have missed it. Sadly, I do not “get”
Art Nouveau, so it was lost on me….
“The journey of a
thousand miles must begin with one step.”
Lao Tzu
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Sea Day complete with Helicopter rescue (drill)
Our second day at sea was very relaxing and
easy….I attended a craft class, no line dancing today – although a really good
class yesterday. Met up with friends,
sat out at the pool, with coat, hat and scarf…..ate a good lunch. What more
could you ask for?
A helicopter rescue drill, that is what we
needed! And we got one, what a show that
was. The captain announced the Shetlands Coast Guard were coming to do a drill, so none of us was worried
when they arrived and began their rescue mission. The skill it must take for the helicopter to
hover right in front of the ship and drop off a pallet to, in theory, collect a
person in distress. It was so impressive
and fun to watch. Not to mention the most exciting thing that was happening all
day today!
Once the show was over, we all went back to
sitting in the sun, reading, napping or whatever. Life is good!
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